Fabric Sewing Guide

 Fabric Sewing Guide

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142 fabric sewing guide

Số trang: 530 trang

Ngôn ngữ: English

Introduction

All sewing (fashion garments, artwear,
home décor, accessories, and quilts) begins with

the fabric, and understanding the fabric is the key

to success. Claire Shaeff er’s Fabric Sewing Guide focuses

on the fabrics and materials used to make garments.

It is designed to give you the confi dence to

sew fabrics you have not sewn before and the skills

to sew all fabrics better.



Th is single-volume reference includes complete

and practical information for sewing all of today’s

fabrics, but since there will be more new materials

tomorrow, next month, or next year, this book

also provides the information you need to develop

the skills and techniques needed to sew those fabrics

successfully. Th e book is organized for easy reference,

with seven sections and extensive appendices:

part one: Prologue, presents the basics of planning

a garment.

part two: Fiber Content, outlines the characteristics

of fi bers, natural and manufactured.

part three: Fabric Structure, describes the

various weaves and knits with the details for

sewing them.

part four: Fabric Types, describes methods

for handling fabrics with specialty surfaces and

structures.

part five: Interfacings and Linings, provides

complete details about lining, interfacing, and

other fabrics used for interior support.

part six: Sewing Techniques, describes the

basic techniques referenced in the previous

sections.

part seven: Appendices and Glossaries is a

comprehensive listing of important textile terms

and frequently used fabrics.

Unlike most sewing books, which focus only on

techniques, this guide focuses on fabrics and their

characteristics, as well as how to sew them successfully.

It will help you select fabrics and become a

more knowledgeable consumer, even if you don’t

sew. It addresses fabric-related situations that cannot

be included on pattern guides and warns you

about problems or mistakes before they occur. It

will help you choose the most appropriate techniques

for individual garments and fabrics, depending

on the garment quality and use, as well as your

time commitments and sewing experience. (For example,

if I am sewing an everyday wash-and-wear

cotton blouse, I choose quick-and-easy machine

techniques that will launder well. When sewing a cotton tapestry party dress that will be dry-cleaned,

I use more hand sewing and design details.)

Th is book will broaden your understanding of

fabrics and sewing techniques so you can apply

your knowledge intelligently. It includes many

fashion photographs from friends, colleagues, homesewers,

fashion-focused businesses, and vintage

collections that will stimulate your imagination for

future designs.

My personal style is classic and appropriate

for my age and lifestyle, and yes, there are some

designs that refl ect my taste, particularly those from

the Custom Couture Collection, which I design for

Vogue Patterns. But this is a book for everyone who

sews, so I have included designs appropriate for

many diff erent lifestyles, age groups, and individual

tastes that are quite diff erent from those I sew and

wear. I have also included some vintage garments

because the designs showcase the fabrics well,

include interesting details, and provide inspiration

for new designs. I might add that I oft en see the

infl uence of designs from the past in the current

collections of the world’s best designers.

Some photographs show the garments on dress

forms, others are on models, both professional and

amateur. You will see a variety of fi gure types since

my readers can be any age and any size. I have also

included a few fabulous quilts, some accessories,

and home décor items because they are easy to

sew and provide a great way to learn to sew on

diff erent fabrics.

How to Use This Book

Th is sewing guide is organized for easy reference.

First, identify your fabric, its fi ber content, structure,

and type, including its texture, weight, transparency,

and surface design. Th en review any

appropriate sections in the book that apply. I usually

begin my review with the fabric type unless it’s a

fi ber I have not sewn recently. For example, if the

fabric is a striped silk chiff on, like the design on page

49, I begin with the fabric types: Sheers, Stripes, and

Prints. If I haven’t sewn lightweight silks recently,

I’ll review the section on Lightweight Silk.

Each fabric section begins with the fabric’s characteristics

so you will know what to expect. Th e

sewing checklists summarize the basic equipment,

supplies, and techniques for handling the fabric.

Th e core of the section details specifi c information

for planning the garment, design ideas, selecting

quality fabrics, sewing notes for layouts, cutting,

marking, stitching tips, construction details, pressing

techniques, and garment care.

If you have never made a particular type of seam

or seam fi nish, need a refresher on a technique, or

want to learn new techniques, look for step-by-step

instructions in Part Six, Sewing Techniques. If you

want to expand your knowledge of techniques even

more, consult my other books, Couture Sewing Techniques

(Taunton Press, 2001), and High Fashion Secrets

from the World’s Best Designers (Rodale Press,

2001). My book, Sew Any Fabric: A Quick Reference

Guide to Fabrics from A to Z (Krause Publications,

2003), is a handy, quick guide for shopping expeditions

and getting started.



When you encounter an unfamiliar textile or

fabric term, look it up in the Fiber and Fabric Glossary.

It includes a brief defi nition and reference for

similar materials. To expand your knowledge, begin

a swatch library, using the glossary as a guide.

To answer your most frequently asked questions,

I have provided appendices with detailed information

about needles, threads, interfacings, topstitching,

and identifying your fi ber types, as well as a

resource list for fabrics, patterns, and notions.

Th is fabric sewing guide was written for you. To

reap the most from it, read it from cover to cover

and make notes in it. Describe the fabrics you sew,

the techniques you like or don’t like, and your ideas

for future designs or trims.

Th is book is only a springboard. It is designed

to stimulate your creativity and provide the knowledge

you need to sew with confi dence. Dare to experiment

with new ideas and new fabrics and share

them with me.