Sewing Shirts with a Perfect Fit

Sewing Shirts with a Perfect Fit

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143 Sewing Shirts with a Perfect Fit

Số trang: 306 trang
Ngôn ngữ: English

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INTRODUCTION

WHAT THIS BOOK IS ABOUT AND WHAT IT ISN’T

This book is to guide home sewists, of all sewing and patternmaking skills,

in the development of unique, personal, and well-fitted basic shirt patterns

for themselves or anyone else, male and female, any shape, any size. Sewing

Shirts with a Perfect Fit, is organized in two parts: a draping/fitting section

followed by a project-based sewing section.

Fitting My approach to creating these patterns doesn’t start with choosing a

commercial pattern, taking extensive body measurements, and poring over

size charts. There are no flat-pattern alterations based on all these usual

preparations, nor any lists of body-shape “issues” with associated pattern

fixes. Nor will you find any directions for drafting a pattern based on body

measurements and ease formulas. Instead, I’ll show you how to create

perfectly fitting patterns quickly and intuitively by manipulating fabric

directly on a body or dress form until it drapes smoothly into the shape and

fit of the shirt you want to make, with no obvious wrinkles or grain

distortions.

The draping portion of the book is divided into five chapters. Chapters 1 and

2 are big-picture overviews of shirt styles and fitting in general. The

remaining three chapters explore achieving three specific types of shirt fit:

loosely fitted, fitted, and tightly fitted (or very snug), using direct fabric

manipulations on an actual body or torso form, in combination with pattern

shapes from the included full-size pattern sheet. If you prefer, you can use the

same pattern shapes from any standard commercial shirt pattern or copy them

from a favorite existing shirt. It doesn’t matter where the initial basic pattern

pieces come from, the draping for perfect fit process is the same.

Sewing Once you’ve seen how a basic draping process works to create

patterns, I’ll walk you through four specific shirt-type example projects to

demonstrate how on-the-spot draping can be incorporated into the

construction process. This unique fitting process ensures an equally

customized and perfected fit for each new shirt project you undertake. You

can then adapt your carefully fitted patterns to design shirts for a wide range

of different fabrics, new details, and even varying degrees of fitting ease.

The garment examples in the second section, demonstrate part of the range of

possibilities any basic shirt pattern offers, and hopefully includes styles and

features that many readers will find interesting. If I’ve not hit your particular

interests with these examples, you might wish to check either of my two

previous books on shirt making, both of which focus extensively on other

detail and style options for shirt makers. Details from any commercial

patterns can, of course, be added or adapted to make any well-fitting shirt

style.

So that sewers at any experience level can follow along, additional

information, beyond that which fits in the pages of this book, is available for

download at www.quartoknows.com/page/sewing-shirts. The extra material

covers in greater detail the basics of making muslin test garments to reshape

existing flat patterns or to make new flat patterns from the draped pieces. It

also includes more detailed step-by-step sewing steps, as you would find in

a purchased pattern, for the sewing projects in the second section of this

book.