Pattern Fitting With Confidence

Pattern Fitting With Confidence

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140 Pattern Fitting With Confidence

Số trang: 130 trang

Ngôn ngữ: English

Nancy Zieman's pattern fitting approach is easy - no cutting, slashing, tucking or pinching just logical and easy pivot-and-slide techniques, providing a painless method to follow that results in a garment that is comfortable and attractive.

Once you learn Nancy's techniques for fitting, you will find it easy to make every garment you sew fit your size and shape.

Multiple fitting charts are included in the book, as well as an index for locating technical information at a glance.


Table of Contents

Chapter One: Getting Started .........................................................................................................6

Choosing the Right Pattern Size ........................................................................................................8

Taking Accurate Measurements ........................................................................................................10

Choosing Your Pattern Type .............................................................................................................12

Comparing Measurements ................................................................................................................13

Choosing a Streamlined Style ...........................................................................................................15

Allowing Design Ease ........................................................................................................................16

Learning to Pivot and Slide ...............................................................................................................17

Chapter Two: Basic Fitting Changes ...........................................................................................18

Bustline Changes ...............................................................................................................................20

Dart Changes .....................................................................................................................................23

Hipline Changes ................................................................................................................................26

Waistline Changes .............................................................................................................................28

Sleeve Changes ...................................................................................................................................29

Shoulder Changes.............. ................................................................................................................32

Back Changes............................................................ .........................................................................38

Hemline Changes...............................................................................................................................42

Sleeve Length Changes......................................... .............................................................................44

Chapter Three: Combining Fitting Techniques.................................... ...................................46

Combining Fitting Changes on One Worksheet.............................. ................................................48

Typical Combined Fitting Changes................................................................... ...............................52

Adding Extensions..............................................................................................................57

Chapter Four: Fitting Skirts................................................................... ........................................58

Waist Changes......................................................... ...........................................................................60

Waist and Waistband Changes................................................................ ..........................................62

Hip Changes.......................................................................................................................................64

Fitting for a High Hip...................................................................................................... ..................66

Hem Changes........................................................................................................ .............................67

Combining Fitting Changes ..............................................................................................................70

Chapter Five: Fitting Pants................................................................................................ .............72

Determining Size...................................................................................................................... .........74

Measuring the Pattern........................................................................................................ ...............78

First Worksheet: Hem Length Changes........................................................................ ....................82

Fitting the Side Curve.............................................................................. ..........................................84

Fitting the Crotch....................................................................................................... .......................86

Second Worksheet: Waist Width Changes................................................... .....................................92

Fitting the Hip.................................................................................... ...............................................95

Fitting the Thigh............................................................................................................... .................96

Width Combinations............................................................................................... ..........................98

Increased Waist, Hip, and Thigh Combinations......................................... ...................................100

Chapter Six: Fine-Tuning the Fit...................................................... ..........................................102

Checking the Fit............................................................................................ ...................................104

Checking for Wrinkles............................................................... ......................................................106

Fine-Tuning Pants Fitting ...............................................................................................................113

References..................................................................................... ......................................................116

Charts............................................................................................ ...................................................117

Index................................................................................................ .................................................124